Robert Parker 95
Though having tasted the Haut-Brion 1982 on numerous occasions, it is still a divine Pessac-Leognan to cherish. Here at The Glasshouse restaurant, it has that lovely warm gravel on a summer’s day bouquet, brown autumn leaves, bay leaf and here= a slightly more conspicuous note of black olive than I have noticed in the past. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, again a little more diffuse than its fellow 1982 First Growths, but with just as much charm. If anything, it feels a little tighter and more backward than previous examples, perhaps suggesting that bottles of excellent provenance will last many years. It is a wonderful 1982 First Growth, not a pinnacle of the vintage, but disarmingly and utterly charming. Tasted July 2014.
Anticipated maturity: 2014-2030
Good medium amber-edge red. Flamboyant aromas of smoked meat, leather, truffle and burnished oak. Intensely flavored and penetrating, with strong acids giving the flavors terrific cut and grip. I get an impression of strong cabernet tannins. Drink now through 2020. 94. My second bottle showed even more extravagantly expressive aromas of hot stones, tobacco, minerals and marzipan; a denser, silkier palate impression, with more obvious roasted Graves character; and an uncanny combination of sheer sweetness with structure and grip. I rated this wine even higher.
Enjoyed with Jay McInerney who was precluded from opening it (and the bottle of La Mission 1982 enjoyed alongside) when he took Eric Ripert of Le Bernardin to Frenchette who insisted he chose from their list of natural wines instead. In the prime of life. Mid ruby. Sweet, round, fairly soft (all tannin spent) with the signature warm bricks and tobacco aromas. Smudgy with a hint of sweet cassis. Really very gorgeous.
Anticipated maturity: 1992-2030