Robert Parker 90.0
The Chambertin is a more closed, deeper-colored wine than the outstanding Gevrey-Chambertin-Clos St.-Jacques. The Chambertin reveals an impressive dark ruby/purple color, a closed bouquet, and tight, hard tannins. This deep, broad-shouldered, full-bodied, intensely concentrated, chewy-textured, closed wine needs 5-6 years cellaring. It should last through the first decade of the next century. At the top level, Rousseau consistently produces three profound wines – Gevrey-Chambertin-Clos St.-Jacques (as good as most producer’s grands crus), Chambertin-Clos de Beze, and Chambertin. That being said, I remain perplexed as to why Rousseau’s other wines are so surprisingly light and fluid. While good, sometimes very good, they are markedly inferior to his top three wines. Never one to jump on the bandwagon for forward, super-ripe vintages, (he still believes 1983 is the finest vintage of the eighties), Rousseau is unpersuaded by the acclaim bestowed on 1990. Importer: Frederick Wildman, New York, NY.
Anticipated maturity: 1997-2010
Bright ruby – quite a deep colour actually. Delightfully shaded. Pungent and definitely with lots of tertiary aromas. This has crossed the Rubicon into something serious! Fireworks and explosions. Great breadth and richness. Long and kerpow. So complex and beautfully balanced, Struck match quality. Fine tannins on the finish but lots of pleasure. Tense and exciting.
Anticipated maturity: 2007-2037
The 1990 Chambertin appears to be at an early plateau of maturity where the tannins have softened and the flavors are starting to show signs of dried stone fruit, leather, tobacco and spice overtones. There is lovely silkiness and nuance throughout, but less of the visceral thrill that is found in many other wines in this tasting. I would prefer to drink the 1990 sooner rather than later.
Anticipated maturity: 2017-2022