Very strong mousse Idiosyncratic nose of yellow fruits, minerals, ginger, honey, lily and magnolia; like a grand cru white Burgundy. Very intensely flavored but subtle and light on its feet. A vivid wine with great vinosity and penetration. Strong acids give it a brisk, firm-edged finish. Not as creamy or thick as the 1990, but I find this more stylish. A triumph for the vintage.
Robert Parker 91
Tasted at Bordeaux Index’s Clos des Goisses dinner. Disgorged September 2009, a blend of 65% Pinot Noir and 35% Chardonnay, the ’91 Clos des Goisses displayed ethereal definition on the nose, not so much a mineralite, but more like a transparency where there are traces of stoned fruit, nectarine, jasmine, mulch and smoke. The palate is complex with a distinct kerosene note inflecting the mid-palate, flinty and edgy towards the finish. Not as harmonious or as assured as the ’90, but multi-faceted and engaging. Drink now-2016. Tasted October 2009.
Anticipated maturity: 2010-2016
Late disgorged in 2016, after 25 years on the lees! Dosage 4.5 g/l. Very sumptuous indeed. Dark gold. Pungent nose reminiscent of cordite/fireworks. Dense and dry. Massive tension. This wine attacks the palate like a spear rather than a cloud, it has such attack. There was a slight botrytised element to this extremely complex wine. It went beautifully with cheese. A great champagne.
Anticipated maturity: 2017-2029