Robert Parker 93
The 1992 is unquestionably the “wine of the vintage.” How Bonneau managed to produce such an amazing beverage continues to boggle my mind. It did not show that well when tasted from the various containers in the cramped cellars, but out of bottle, it’s the real deal! Aromas of grilled meats, barbecue spices, lavender, smoke, cedar, and kirsch liqueur soar from the glass of this dark plum/ruby-colored wine. Its power and richness in a vintage such as this are hard to believe. Long, chewy, and close to full maturity (unusual for a 10-year old Reserve des Celestins), it can be drunk now and over the next 12 years.
Anticipated maturity: 2003-2015
Good deep red. Sauvage aromas of redcurrant, leather, nuts, raisins and maple syrup; almost like a tawny port. Outstanding concentration and confectionery sweetness in the mouth; silky and liqueur-like. Classic Bonneau aromas of surmaturité. Without question the wine of the vintage, and perhaps Bonneau’s greatest success between 1990 and 1997. This reminded me of local chocolatier Bernard Castelain’s signature chocolate truffle made with marc de Châteauneuf.