Robert Parker 92
Regrettably only 50 cases of the Gevrey-Chambertin Lavaux St. Jacques were produced. A stunning wine, it possesses fabulous dark berries on the nose and a super-concentrated personality packed with layers of chewy and spicy currants, black cherries and sweet oak. Full-bodied, super-concentrated, complex, long and just outrageously delicious, this beauty will repay 5 years of cellaring yet keep for another decade. This note is the result of tastings I did in Burgundy between January 7 and January 29. The wine was tasted from cask, not bottle. Pinot Noir, a fragile varietal, reacts poorly to fining, filtration, and careless bottling techniques, I recommend caution when considering buying a red burgundy based on cask samples. I called it as I tasted it, and hope the bottled wine reflects the quality of the samples I was provided. In 1993 and 1994, both difficult vintages many top-flight growers were unable to harness, Dugat produced some of the Cote d’Or’s best wines. 1995 is no different. Rich, concentrated and offering layers of perfectly ripened fruit, these offerings firmly ensconce Bernard Dugat in the top echelon of the world’s best Pinot Noir producers. Importer: Peter Weygandt, Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 932-2745.
Anticipated maturity: 2002-2012
Deep ruby-red. Perfumed aromas of blackberry, boysenberry, licorice, smoke, coffee and oak spice. Very intensely flavored and juicy but folded in on itself today. Finishes very long, with chewy, tougher tannins. Not at all dry, but the ’96 is rounder.