Robert Parker 93
At first, this has a more vigorous nose than the two Grand Crus (Chambertin and Clos-de-Beze ’95). Red-berried fruit, wild hedgerow, wild strawberry and a touch of copper piping. Very good definition. The palate is medium-bodied, very well balanced with vibrant acidity. Silky smooth, quite pointed with raspberry, Morello and a more earthy finish. After an initial burst, it eases off the gas and is overtaken by the Grand Crus in terms of complexity and vigour, yet it remains effortlessly poised and with an unerring sense of transparency on the finish. Drink now-2018. Tasted January 2008.
Anticipated maturity: 2009-2018
From Bill Baker’s cellar. Pale rust red. Funky earthy nose at first promises great things to come with the rich violets and truffles. So clean and fresh! Great depth and breadth. Rich fruit and then a dry finish. Vibrant, as on a cello string. Dregs still going strong in a glass left overnight. Beautiful perfume and fresh but not excessive acidity.
Anticipated maturity: 2010-2030
The 1995 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos St.-Jacques 1er Cru is a vintage that I have not tasted for a decade. After 23 years there remains plenty of dark berry fruit on the nose mixed with sous-bois, melted tar and brown spices. Compared to the 1996, it does not quite deliver the same precision. The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannins, quite introspective and missing the joie-de-vivre I seek from Rousseau’s wines. It seems almost weighed down by reputation. I wonder if this peaked around the time I last drank it? Tasted at Bistro de l’Hotel in Beaune.
Anticipated maturity: 2019-2032