From Bill Baker’s cellar. Pale rust red. Funky earthy nose at first promises great things to come with the rich violets and truffles. So clean and fresh! Great depth and breadth. Rich fruit and then a dry finish. Vibrant, as on a cello string. Dregs still going strong in a glass left overnight. Beautiful perfume and fresh but not excessive acidity.
Anticipated maturity: 2010-2030
The 1995 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos St.-Jacques 1er Cru is a vintage that I have not tasted for a decade. After 23 years there remains plenty of dark berry fruit on the nose mixed with sous-bois, melted tar and brown spices. Compared to the 1996, it does not quite deliver the same precision. The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannins, quite introspective and missing the joie-de-vivre I seek from Rousseau’s wines. It seems almost weighed down by reputation. I wonder if this peaked around the time I last drank it? Tasted at Bistro de l’Hôtel in Beaune.
Anticipated maturity: 2019-2032