Next up is Philipponnat’s 1996 Clos de Goisses. Tasted from magnum, the 1996 is remarkably fresh, vibrant and powerful. This is a great bottle.
Robert Parker 94
Offering up complex aromas of candied peel, warm biscuits, golden orchard fruit and toast, this perfectly preserved original disgorgement of the 1996 Clos des Goisses is medium to full-bodied, incisive but fleshy, its bright spine of vintage-typical acidity cloaked in lively fruit, and complemented by a pearly mousse. This is one 1996 Champagne that has finally arrived at full maturity.
Anticipated maturity: 2020-2036
Disgorged 2010 (not a late disgorgement). Deep gold and pungent with a suggestion of green fruit and with what could well be interpreted as an element of light oxidation. No malo but again, very marked by the high acidity of 1996 which should in theory have helped this usually-super-ripe wine. Charles Philipponnat reported that in its youth, this wine had an element of honey, and claimed the light note of oxidation ‘added to the complexity’. Apparently this wine had the highest malic acid ever – 6 g/l – and, according to him, ‘it should be undrinkable!’ Distinct notes of Marmite yeast extract. Bit of a Marmite wine overall.
Anticipated maturity: 2013-2027