(from vines between 100 and 120 years of age) Saturated violet. Amazingly complex bouquet of creme de cassis, candied blackberry, fresh flowers, cocoa powder and minerals. Pulls off the feat of being dense and sweet but also bright and lively, with potent dark berry, kirsch and licorice candy flavors that deepen with air. The tannins, if you can find them under the mountain of flavor, are fine-grained and wonderfully supple. This wine’s purity of fruit, along with its precision and richness, made it one of the most dramatic wines of my tastings.