Tasting Notes
JancisRobinson.com 18
[70 CS 70%, CF 12%, M 15%, PV 3%; 40 hl/ha average yield; 57% of production went into the grand vin so that there is actually less available of the 2004 than of 2003; 92% new oak but barrels have been progressively less toasted since 2000]. An extremely distinctive wine – almost mid Atlantic rather than Pauillac and therefore of course very winning. Very dark purple. Hidden, deep-flavoured nose. Some rather sweet notes – even ripe Merlot notes which dominate at the moment. Very smooth and flattering in texture with real polish – very supple tannins with lots of fruit on the front palate. Not nearly as dry as one would expect of a first growth Pauillac – almost a hint of Opus One in texture? No hint of oak. Very interesting and not at all severe.
Anticipated maturity: 2015-2030
Robert Parker 92
Last tasted three or four years ago, the 2004 Mouton-Rothschild is a satisfactory wine, even if in my opinion it pales again subsequent success in so-called “challenging” vintages such as 2006 or 2008. It came across tight and broody on the nose, a hint of seaweed tincturing the black fruit, later on a whiff of smoke. It does not feel as refined as either the 2004 Lafite-Rothschild or the 2004 Latour. The palate is medium-bodied and shows more class than the aromatics: cohesive and with just the right amount of grip, a little chewy perhaps but with a pleasant saline sensation towards the “correct” finish. It ticks all the boxes but does not go that extra mile. Tasted September 2016.
Anticipated maturity: 2018-2035