Picked even later than the reds – perfectly healthy berries but, as always with Montrachet, with marvellous freshness. Deep gold already. Quite exceptionally concentrated, dense and savoury. Straight-backed, rigorous nose with lots of sap and minerals but richness too. “It always feels like a sin to drink this wine”, says Aubert de Villaine, referring to just how easy and rewarding it is to do so. This is a substantial meal of a wine that insistently pulls the taster in to the spicy, creamy but not at all sweet fume that hovers over the tingling elixir.
Anticipated maturity: 2012-2028
The 2005 Montrachet is, in my experience, a tricky and variable wine. Once again, though, we are fortunate to have a fine example in this, the most satisfying bottle of the 2005 I have ever tasted. Dried orchard fruit, spice, honey and tropical notes all grace a forward, silky Montrachet that is likely to offer its best drinking sooner rather than later. Tasted at the DRC Montrachet charity event in New York.
Anticipated maturity: 2019-2026