Tasting Notes
Vinous 87-90
(the malolactic fermentation finished in early September) Medium red-ruby. Deep aromas of blackberry and licorice, with a gamey nuance adding complexity. Juicy and mineral-driven but in a drier, more masculine style than the village wine. Black fruits and licorice pastille dominate. This is quite concentrated and primary but the tannins are currently a bit rough. Evolving very slowly: today this is the driest of these 2006s. Bachelet told me that he did a green harvest in these vines just two days before the late July hailstorm yet still made between 40 and 45 hectoliters per hectare. "We had a lot of water in 2006," he explained.
Robert Parker 90
Bachelet’s 2006 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Corbeaux leads with brown spice-tinged bitter-edged cassis and blackberry, then practically drops off the left end of the keyboard as it opens dark, low-toned vistas of bitter-sweet herbal concentrate, black fruits, toasted nuts, resin, and wet stone. This is sedate in comparison with the Vieilles Vignes bottling, as well as less-evolved and far more structured. It finishes with impressive grip and impeccable cleanliness, if also a certain austerity. I would revisit it in 2010 or 2011 but anticipate 6-8 years of satisfying development. Perhaps not coincidentally, this was the last wine to finish malo " right around its first birthday! Denis Bachelet performed a rigorous, late green harvest as a means of "pre-selection," recognizing that thereafter more than enough work would still remain to be done at harvest and on the sorting table. (Green harvest in July or the first half of August in retrospect risked dangerous pressure on berries when the vines began to pump rainwater.) Bachelet guided his 2006s " as is ever his wont " through late malos (keeping them in an extremely frigid cellar), and in other respects, too, he says, the vinificatory regimen was "the same as usual. Nature is what makes the difference." After light chaptalization, they have around 13% finished alcohol. "For me," he says, "this is a very classic vintage, like 2001 but with a bit more acidity, whereas the 2007s are more fruity and feminine." It follows that Bachelet considers his 2006s " especially the (predictably ripest and earliest-harvested) Charmes-Chambertin " demanding of time in cellar. A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet; fax 011-333-80-24-29-70
Anticipated maturity: 2010-2018
