The 2009 Haut-Brion has a less precocious but more detailed bouquet, more nuanced perhaps with warm slates baking in the summer sun, tilled loam and cedar infusing the black fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin, perfect acidity, layers of mineral-rich black fruit. This seems to have gained more complexity in recent years and is beginning to flirt with perfection. It’s not there yet, but it is moving in that direction. Tasted at BI Wines & Spirits’ Ten Year On tasting.
Anticipated maturity: 2023-2065
Robert Parker 100
The 2009 Haut-Brion is deep garnet colored and slightly closed and shy to begin, slowly unfurling to reveal sensuous notions of warm blackberries, plum preserves, mulberries and blackcurrant cordial with touches of star anise, mocha and damp soil. Full-bodied, taut and tightly wound in the mouth, the palate delivers mouth-coating black fruit and mineral layers with a very firm frame of ripe, grainy tannins, finishing long and earthy. This needs time!
Anticipated maturity: 2020-2054
46% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Cabernet Franc. Clearly a fruit-driven vintage, where there is still loads of youth and vim. The complexity is starting to creep in now though – there’s ferrous character, meatiness, black cherry and graphite. A great showcase for what makes first-growth bordeaux special. (RH)
Anticipated maturity: 2019-2039