Only a slight fading at the rim reveals the 10 years of maturity that the 2012 Brunello di Montalcino has undergone, yet from its bouquet—a brilliant mix of dusty rose, dried strawberries, plum skins, lavender and a hint of tobacco—you’d never know. “Ethereal” is the word, as silken textures wash across the palate weightlessly, yet unleash an array of wild berry fruits, cloves, allspice and dried citrus that totally captivates. Still lightly tannic yet amazingly energetic, the 2012 tapers off potent and long, leaving nuances of licorice and a hint of balsamic spice that lingers on and on. There is no fear of decline here; in fact, it’s still on the steady path of evolution, and collectors who have the 2012 Cerbaiona should consider themselves very lucky. It’s a total charmer.