Robert Parker 91
The 2012 Volnay 1er Cru Champans was showing signs of closing down since I tasted it the previous year. There are still those strawberry and cranberry aromas but they are hidden in this wine’s tight fist. The palate is medium-bodied, the tannins just hardened up since 2014, very well balanced as before and yet the structure is more pronounced on the finish. It may go into a sulk for two or three years, so do not be afraid to put this away in your cellar.
Anticipated maturity: 2020-2048
Healthy dark red. Still a hint of leesy reduction to the aromas of dark raspberry and smoke. Powerful and penetrating but youthfully tight, with remarkably sweet dark fruit flavors and a texture of liquid velvet perfectly countered by excellent harmonious acidity. Boasts terrific thrust but for all its power, depth and sucrosité this premier cru seems less massive than the Frémiet. The tannins are firm but suave.
Anticipated maturity: 2025-2036
More peppery than the 2011 and a little meaty/savoury. Firm, dry and more tannic than the 2011 but not lean – perhaps a little more austere and ‘serious’. Elegant nevertheless. Refined but still firm. (JH)
Anticipated maturity: 2018-2030