The 2014 Ontogeny is bold, racy and opulent, with plenty of up-front dark cherry, jam, mocha, chocolate and sweet spices. Bold, racy and exotic, the 2014 offers tremendous appeal. Once again, Bevan poured the Ontogeny last in my tasting. It certainly did not suffer being tasted after all the big guns, or bigger guns, I should say. Given its price relative to the other wines in the range, Ontogeny is the wine to buy for readers who are looking for alternatives to the more sought after bottlings. This is a terrific introduction to the Bevan wines.
Anticipated maturity: 2017-2022