Robert Parker 95
The 2014 Romanee-Saint-Vivant Grand Cru was picked on 21, 22 and 23 September cropped at 31.6 hectoliters per hectare. Now this has a distinctly earthy bouquet, one that leads you into the dark woods. Yes, there is plenty of vivacious red berry fruit, here augmented with something autumnal, brown leaves on an October morning, moss and tree bark. Then with continued aeration, these shift away and are replaced by pure floral aromas. The palate is very precise on the entry with a touch of orange rind and mandarin complementing the crushed strawberry and raspberry fruit; there is a touch of spiciness towards the finish that exerts a gentle, yet insistent grip a la Richebourg. The persistence here is very impressive and it just seems to blossom in the glass until you have utterly succumbed to its charms. 1,756 cases produced. Tasted February 2017.
Anticipated maturity: 2019-2035
Good dark red. Captivating subtle perfume of raspberry, dried flowers and earthy underbrush; subdued but pure. Then dense and sappy in the mouth, conveying a penetrating, urgent quality to its intense flavors of crushed raspberry and earth. This RSV possesses the roundness and silky texture of the best 2014s, as well as almost liqueur-like ripeness, but the wine’s superb energy gives it terrific inner-mouth lift. Finishes with broad, serious tannins and outstanding persistence.
Pale to mid garnet, lighter than the Echezeaux and Grands Echezeaux. A change of gear in aroma too, with sweeter red fruit, though not as sweet or red as on the Corton. Already beautifully fragrant and expressive on the nose and just a hint of oak spice and lightly smoky/mineral. But it is the fruit that is most expressive at the moment. With air, that mineral quality becomes more marked, with a light cedar quality adding to the impression of freshness. Again a touch of mint or balsam. Deep and supple on the palate, the acidity more marked than on the Echezeaux and Grands Echezeaux giving it a more streamlined shape on the palate, the tannins carried along by the acidity rather than holding everything in. With air, a little more stemmy. Really deep and with a more chocolate texture to the tannins on the finish, smooth but grainy. (JH)
Anticipated maturity: 2029-2045