The 2014 Barolo Sperss is an attractive wine from Gaja’s vineyards in Serralunga. There is good depth to the succulent black cherry, plum, smoke and licorice flavors, although it doesn’t quite have the explosiveness or power of the very best years. Because of the wine’s slender personality, the oak is a bit more evident than is typically the case. The Sperss also feels a bit forced in terms of extraction and oak, especially next to the Conteisa, where the choices have turned out to be more successful in bringing out the best the vintage has to offer.
Anticipated maturity: 2020-2034
Potent candied cherry fruit, powerful with a sour tint on the palate. Finely chiselled tannins, like soft marble (is there such a thing?!) yet with a furry, floury character too. Chewy but very yielding. Very savoury, charred characteristics on the finish. High alcohol. (RH)
Anticipated maturity: 2019-2034