The 2016 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru is showing more oak on the nose compared to Bruno Clair’s Bonnes-Mares tasted alongside, although there is clearly sufficient fruit behind to support it: blackberry, blueberry and a touch of boysenberry. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy black fruit laced with black tea and a touch of iodine, then a strong marine influence develops towards the finish. My concern is that the wood tannins threaten to dominate but thankfully with aeration this settles down nicely and I suspect with time it would meliorate further. Tasted blind at the 2016 Burgfest tasting.
Anticipated maturity: 2025-2060
Robert Parker 95-97
“The 2016 Bonnes Mares Grand Cru was not as affected by the frost as other cuvées. Christophe explained that the northern part of his vines was less frozen and ended up being cropped at a none-too-shabby 28 hectoliters per hectare. Also, his holding is augmented by half a hectare situated on the terres blanches soils under a new fermage from Pierre Naigeon. It has a very precise bouquet that delivers exquisite blackberry, briary and subtle leafy/undergrowth scents emanating from the whole bunch element. For a Bonnes Mares, this has an atypically firm structure: a more masculine Bonnes Mares with dark berry fruit and hints of graphite toward the finish. This is a Bonnes Mares that is holding its breath, and it deserves several years, probably a decade, to reach its drinking window. It is not quite as good as the 2015 Bonnes Mares, but it is only a whisker away.”
Anticipated maturity: 2023-2045
‘Terres rouges’ is very close to the northern limit, with Morey. Pruning identical. ‘Terres blanches’ is above the path that dissects Bonnes Mares. Roumier has three parcels from far north to far south. In 2016 he was able to include the fruit from an extra ha of land owned by Ficofi – planted in 1995, in a good state and a little more vigorous than this – in the terres blanches. Now they have six different parcels and only one was badly frozen. 28 hl/ha average. So normal quantity thanks to extra vines. 65% whole bunch. Less new oak than usual: 25%. Dark crimson. Juicy and alluring on the nose. And then wonderfully rich and exciting on the palate. Great intensity and majesty. Woo hoo! Long and gorgeous.
Anticipated maturity: 2026-2045