The 2017 Chambertin Clos-de-Bèze Grand Cru is the last wine to be poured as Cyrielle Rousseau mentions how it takes longer to fully absorb the oak. It has a much more introverted bouquet compared to the Chambertin this year and demands much more coaxing. Eventually it reveals brambly dark fruit, Earl Grey and a hint of chestnut. The palate is showing the wood at the moment (as Cyrielle Rousseau had predicted) although there is immense substance here with an almost candied, savoury finish that is going to be intriguing once bottled. It is very persistent…but will it exude the nobility of the Chambertin?
Anticipated maturity: 2024-2045
Robert Parker 93
The 2017 Chambertin-Clos de Beze Grand Cru bursts from the glass with extroverted aromas of dark, plummy fruits that mingle with notes of chocolate, licorice, sweet oak spice, grilled meats and espresso. On the palate, it’s full-bodied, rich and ample with broad shoulders, a generous core of fruit and more mid-palate amplitude and tannic bite than the Chambertin.
Eric Rousseau’s daughter Cyrielle always shows this after Chambertin. She says it’s because it is ‘more violent in the mouth at this stage’. A touch smoky, and that lovely chalky/dusty note. So fragrant (today). Then a powerhouse on the palate ” ‘il y a du chevaux’ ” there’s power but no aggression, like a chest puffed out or a balloon filled up: fine yet more voluminous. Dark fruited with just a hint of purple flowers. Incredible yet subtle perfume tangled up in the power, woven in with the fruit. Dark, spicy and rich on the long, long finish. (JH)
Anticipated maturity: 2027-2040