Robert Parker 96
The 2018 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru has turned out brilliantly, unwinding in the glass with sachets of orange oil, white flowers, crisp orchard fruit, blanched almonds, vanilla pod and buttered toast. Full-bodied, satiny and concentrated, it’s deep and multidimensional, with racy acids and a long, electric finish. This is one 2018 white Burgundy that is built for sustained bottle age.
Anticipated maturity: 2028-2048
1.99 ha (4.92 acres). They have two parts – an upper part (said to be more mineral) and a lower part (more structured) – that they believe marry perfectly, adding to one another rather than becoming more middling. 25% new oak on the grands crus. Tank sample. Smoky, chalk dust. Grapefruit citrus notes but all so cool and tense. Utter purity and restraint on the nose. You might be in a stone quarry here. Mouth-wateringly pure grapefruit on the palate, seems leaner and less complex at the moment than the Bâtard but there’s remarkable concentration here. Mouth-watering, strict, almost austere – serré – at the moment yet goes on forever, like a river out to the sea, where it will open. (JH)
Anticipated maturity: 2028-2038