Robert Parker 93
Aromas of red berries, orange rind, raw cocoa, warm spices and forest floor preface the 2020 Volnay 1er Cru Champans, a medium to full-bodied, rich and structured wine that’s firmer and more muscular than the Taillepieds this year. This is one cuvee that is a touch more structured than its 2019 counterpart, and it will require a bit of patience.
A particularly dark crimson. Crackling Volnay fruit dominates this wine that really draws the taster into the glass. Not an obvious wine – you want to get to know it. Big, almost brutal in its apparently impenetrable concentration. A very distinctive character and pretty uncommunicative at this point. Then it all opens up rather splendidly on the very persistent finish. But it is still keeping a great deal in reserve. Very much a wine of the vineyard.
Anticipated maturity: 2028-2048